Using one of your partially spent welding sticks that is shorter,

add blobs of weld material. Add a blob, let it cool off and then
add another blob on top of it until the tower of blobs looks
similar to the picture.

83
Once your blob tower is high enough and wide enough to cover the
cutout you can go ahead and use your metal file to shape it in
such a way where it becomes a square that fills out the cutout on
the bolt housing.

84
It doesn’t have to be perfect but the sides of the square you are
creating should follow the sides of the bottom geometry on the
bolt housing as you can see it, in the picture.

85
The behind of the square shape will determine how far you can
shove the bolt inside the bolt housing. Be sure to remove
material from the back side of the square shape you’ve created
that you can shove the bolt into the bolt housing and have the
bolt face stick out not more than 1mm.

Do not keep removing material from the back side and the bolt
once the bolt face is only sticking 0.2 – 1mm out. If you
continue to remove material from the backside of the square you
will end up with a gap in the circled location, which you should
prevent.

86
Once you have managed to file the square into
shape so it roughly fills out the cutout on the
bottom of the bolt housing and the bolt in fits
inside the bolt housing well while not sticking
out too much, you then can go ahead.

87
Prepare the steel bolt, the bolt
housing, JB weld and the tools to apply
it and clean the excessive JB weld off.

88
Mix the JB weld very well and then
apply it to the steel bolt to the
extent that you see on the picture.

89
Push the steel bolt into the bolt housing
with the JB weld applied on it.
Make absolutely sure that you don’t have
any JB weld on the backside of the lower
bolt rod. It has to stay clean!

90
Be sure to clean the bolt assembly up
to the extent you see in the pictures,
before letting it dry.

Let the bolt dry for 24 hours before

going ahead with the next steps.

91
Weldless Bolt Option
Text and pictures by IvanTheTroll
Step 1: Prep Work

Remove all supports from your printed parts. Your Bolt Cutting Jigs
should have four upright posts that act as integrated supports – use a
screwdriver or pliers to remove these four posts, as you don’t need
them in place. You don’t need to be very precise, just get the posts
out of the way. It’s fine if a little of the post stays stuck to the
jig itself.

Jigs before removing posts

Jigs with posts removed.

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You will also need to take your 10x10mm bar stock and cut a ~17.75mm
long section from it. Use a hacksaw, your grinding tool, or whatever
other tool you used to cut your bolt rods to length. The length of bar
stock is beneath the bolt rods in the following picture:

Bolt rods cut to length with bar stock cut to length.

Step 2: Creating Weldless Lower Bolt Rod

For the next step, you will need to make sure you have your bolt rods
cut to length (refer to the FGC-9 documentation for this exact length)
and your firing pin channel drilled (again, refer to the FGC-9
documentation for the jig and tutorial on how to drill the firing pin
channel). I will stress that it is *very* important to get your firing
pin channel drilled as straight as you can – It’s also a good idea to
mark which end of the lower bolt rod you drilled into, as this end of
the lower bolt rod should become your breech face. Use a punch or
screwdriver to make a small mark on this end of the bolt rod.
Note: I recommend you do these next couple steps outdoors if you are
using a power tool to grind. If this is not an option, try and use a
room that has tile floor and is easy to sweep in – this process makes
a big mess since you are grinding away a lot of metal.
Take your lower bolt rod, one of your cutting jigs, and the same drill
bit you used to drill your firing pin channel. Insert the lower bolt
rod into the jig BREECH FACE FIRST with the firing pin channel lined
up with the larger of the two holes in the front of the cutting jig.
It is important that you insert the breech face first to ensure things
line up. The breech face is whichever side of the lower bolt rod that
you drilled into first when drilling your firing pin channel, or
whichever end of the rod lines up the best. If your firing pin channel
is too far misaligned and you can’t get the firing pin channel to line
up with the hole in the jig, make a new lower bolt rod and be more
careful when making your firing pin channel.

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Insert the lower bolt rod into the jig fully – make sure it is inserted as far as it can go.

Assuming you inserted the lower bolt rod with the firing pin channel
aligned, take your drill bit and insert it from the front of the jig.
It may be a snug fit, but if you can get it to go in (you can tap it
in gently with a hammer if needed) then your firing pin channel is
close enough to work correctly.

Insert the drill bit you used into the larger of the two holes – the one that lines up with the firing pin channel.

Double check that the bolt rod is still pushed as far into the jig as
it can possibly go – this is very important. After checking this, take
your vise grips/clamp/vise and clamp down on the end of the jig – this
will lock the bolt rod in place. Make sure this is quite tight – don’t
worry about deforming the jig, you want to keep the bolt rod totally
still. MAKE SURE THAT YOUR DRILL BIT IS STUCK IN FROM THE FRONT OF THE
BOLT – you can’t see mine in the picture, but you must make sure it is
inserted.

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Clamp down tight!

Next, you are ready to start removing material. This will get a little
messy, and if you are using power tools you should use safety glasses.
Safety squinting and looking away won’t work here, as you have to
closely inspect how much material you have removed. Get your grinding
tool ready and find a comfortable way to control both the clamped bolt
rod and the grinding tool – I used one hand on the grinder and one
hand on the vise grips, but since your set up may vary, take the time
to find a way that you can keep the clamped bolt rod and grinding tool
under control.
Now you are ready to remove some metal – you will need to use your
grinding tool to make a notch in the bolt rod that follows the shape
of the cutout in the jig – about 10mm wide, about 5mm deep. Take
frequent stops to check how much metal you have removed, but try to
work quickly – removing this much metal makes lots of heat, and your
jig will start to melt. I’ve made four of these bolts at time of
writing this, and using the grinder pictured I am able to remove the
material before the jig gets totally melted. If you are using a Dremel
tool, you can take breaks to let everything cool – if you don’t ever
get the metal red-hot from heat, you can use water to cool it. But if
you do get the metal red-hot, DO NOT use water to cool it off – this
can cause weird local heat treating to occur, which could lead to a
weak bolt.

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Be sure to control your tools! Don’t lose control of them and grind something you aren’t supposed to.

Once you have removed at least 90% of the metal from the slot, you can
remove the jig from the bolt rod. If it is getting melty, wear gloves
and use a screwdriver to try and pry the jig off. You can also use a
punch to drive the bolt rod out of the jig using the small hole in the
front of the jig. Because this jig has been overheated, it isn’t
reusable, so don’t be afraid to break it.
Take your 10mm bar stock and test how it fits into the slot. Usually
it won’t quite fit right away – you can use a Dremel tool or metal
file to remove just a little more metal and get the bar to fit. I
don’t recommend using a grinder, because removing too much metal can
ruin your bolt rod. You will want the bar to fit close to snug in the
slot, with about half of the bar stock sticking up out of the slot.

96
Test fit the bar into the slot in the bolt rod.

Use a metal file to square up and fine-tune the slot in the bolt rods. File a little, test fit the bar, file some more, etc.

97
Step 3: Creating Weldless Upper Bolt Rod
Without going into too much detail, you will make the upper bolt rod
just like you did with the lower bolt rod – only you won’t need to use
a drill bit to align the firing pin hole, since there isn’t a firing
pin hole on the upper bolt rod.
Take your rod, insert it fully into your second cutting jig, clamp it
in place, then use your grinding tools to cut the slot into the rod.
Follow the same steps as in Step 2 with regards to cleaning up the
slot after you have removed most of the metal.
As a reminder, a snug fit on the bar stock is ideal (the less it can
wiggle towards either end of the rod the better), and half of the
height of the bar stock should be sticking out of the slot when the
bar is placed into the slot.

Correct fitment of the bar stock into the slot

98
Step 4: Assembling the Bolt
Once you have slotted both bolt rods, take your bar stock and both
rods and lay them out like seen in the picture below. Your bar stock
might not sit perfectly flat/straight, but so long as the top of the
upper bolt rod touches the bottom of the upper bolt rod, then you’ve
cut your slots properly. If the bolt rods have a gap between each
other because the bar stock doesn’t fit deep enough into the slots,
you will need to make the slots a little deeper.

No gaps between
the upper and
lower bolt rods

Layout of the weldless bolt. Make sure there is NO gap between the bolt rods. If there is, you need to make the slots deeper.

After ensuring that the bar stock can fit between the bolt rods
without any gap between the two bolt rods, you are ready to do a mock-
up fit of your bolt assembly. Take your metal parts and your bolt
housing. Insert the metal parts into the bolt housing as shown in the
picture below. Make sure that your bar stock is centered when it
passes into the bolt housing. If you didn’t make sure that there was
zero gap between the top and bottom bolt rods, you won’t be able to
get the metal parts to fit inside the housing – go back to the
previous step and fix this. It may be a little hard to get your metal
parts inserted the first time – the bolt housing is intentionally
tight to help align the metal parts.

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Carefully guide the metal parts into the bolt housing. You might need to tap them in gently with a hammer the first time.

After fully inserting your bolt rods, I recommend you take the drill
bit you used to drill the firing pin channel, your FGC-9 headspacing
jig (make sure you’ve read the FGC-9 documentation to understand this
tool), and your FGC-9 barrel, as well as a spent/fired cartridge (you
can use a live cartridge but be careful). With the cartridge in the
chamber and the drill bit sticking out of the firing pin channel, use
the headspacing jig to check how the firing pin channel and
cartridge/primer align. If the drill bit in the firing pin channel
points right at the middle of the primer, you’ve done well. If it
doesn’t line up, you will probably have to make a new lower bolt rod –
pay close attention when drilling your firing pin channel.

100
Checking firing pin alignment

Get up close and check – this firing pin channel is well-placed.

After checking alignment of the firing pin channel, you are ready to
JBWeld your bolt assembly into the housing. This step will be messy –
don’t wear any nice clothes, do not work near carpet, and you may want
to wear gloves. Start by mixing a large amount of JBWeld – about 1/3
of each tube should be used for this step. When using large amounts of
JBWeld like this, you will need to mix the two parts for about 5
minutes to ensure it is fully mixed.

101
The minimum amount of JBWeld you should use. Mixing more than this amount is a good idea.

After mixing, use a cheap screwdriver, popsicle stick, or other tool

to smear JBWeld on the inside of the bolt housing. Apply lots of
JBWeld, but try to leave an even coat – you don’t want big blobs, you
want it spread out on the inside of the housing.

Apply JBWeld to the inside of the housing. Use your tool to spread it out.

Next, I recommend you use brake cleaner/degreaser to clean all the

metal parts – this isn’t required but will help make a stronger bolt.
After cleaning the metal parts, fill the slots in the upper and lower
bolt rods with JBWeld. Make a big blob, and ensure the slots have as
much JBWeld in them as you can fit.

102
Fill the slots.

Place the bar stock into the lower bolt rod – JBWeld will squish out.
Try not to wipe this up – you want to leave it squished out. Squish
the lower bolt rod and bar stock into the upper bolt rod – more JBWeld
will squish out.

Squish the rods together.

Now, insert the bolt rods into the housing. As JBWeld squishes out,
try and guide it into the crevasse between the bolt rods and the
housing. You want to cram as much JBWeld between these parts as you
can

103
Smush the bolt rods down into the housing. Smear any JBWeld that squishes out onto the bolt rods and back into the
housing.

Push/pull the metal parts until they are fully seated into the bolt
housing. Shove any JBWeld that squishes out back into the gaps between
the bolt rods and the housing.

Pulling the bolt rods until they are fully seated. Smearing excess JBWeld back into the gaps.

Take your extra 3mm drill bit and coat it in JBWeld – build up lots of
JBWeld on the drill bit, fill the flutes with JBWeld. After coating
the drill bit, you will insert it into the slot at the bottom of the
bolt housing. Insert it until it stops – some of the drill bit will
still be sticking out, this is fine for now.

104
Apply lots of JBWeld!

Smooth out the JBWeld along the bottom of the drill bit/bolt with your
finger. Make sure plenty of JBWeld is smeared over the bottom of the
drill bit/bolt, as seen in the following picture.

At this point, most of the messy work is over. Use a rag to wipe up
any JBWeld on the exposed section of the upper bolt rod. Clean up any
JBWeld that you got on the sides of the bolt housing. Finally, you
will need to clean out any JBWeld that you got into the firing pin
channel/firing pin housing. I usually just use a rag and a screwdriver
for this. Use the screwdriver to guide the rag into the rear of the
bolt and mop up all the JBWeld that you see. Try and get as much of it
out as you can.

105
This JBWeld needs to be cleaned out.

Mop up all that JBWeld!

You’re finally done making messes – set your bolt upright for at least
24 hours to let the JBWeld set up. I recommend you use a clamp on the
outside of the bolt housing while the JBWeld sets up (the clamp
doesn’t need to be very tight, just holding everything steady).

106
Bolt assembly clamped in place while the JBWeld cures.

After the JBWeld has cured for 24 hours, use a hacksaw or Dremel tool
and a file to cut the 3mm drill bit off – you will need to make sure
you cut it off perfectly flat with the face of the lower bolt rod. I
recommend you cut 90% of the length of the drill bit off with your
hacksaw or Dremel tool, then use your metal file to file down the
firing pin until it is flush with the face of the bolt. You may also
have to take the drill bit you drilled out your firing pin channel
with and drill any JBWeld out of the firing pin channel itself.

Dremel off most of the drill bit, then use a file to make it flush with the bolt face.

107
Drill bit filed flat with the bolt face.

Side view – note that the face of the bolt is flat and the drill bit does not protrude.

With this step complete, your bolt is done. If you are making an FGC-9
MKII, you will need to drill the recess for the charging handle into
the upper bolt rod – refer to the main FGC-9 MKII documentation for
the process on doing this.

108
Weldless Bolt FAQ/Troubleshooting

Q: What sort of round counts should I expect? What ends up breaking?

A: While this bolt is by no means stronger than a proper welded bolt,
I have put 500 rounds through one and experienced no issues. If I had
to guess, either the drill bit will come loose and the bolt will lose
it’s ability to pick up rounds out of the magazine, or the JBWeld
holding the bar stock in place will crack and the bolt rods will
become wobbly. If this happens, STOP USING THE BOLT– I’m sure the gun
won’t feed right if this happened, so if you have a weird malfunction
and the bolt feels wiggly, consider the gun out of commission.

Q: What sort of reliability should I expect?

A: Reliability has been great with the bolts I’ve made – on par with
the welded bolts. It’s pretty amazing how well the setup itself works,
I did not expect it to work as well as it has.

Q: Why am I getting light primer strikes or failures to extract?

A: Refer to the main FGC-9 MKII documentation/troubleshooting tips for
issues like this. It is very important that you headspace weldless
bolts per the instructions in the documentation because of the
possibility of the two bolt rods not being perfectly aligned when
making a weldless bolt.

Q: Can I just use a 3mm rod instead of the 3mm drill bit when
JBWelding it into the bottom of the bolt?
A: Maybe, but it will not be as strong as using a drill bit. You can
get a set of 10 3mm drill bits for around $ 5 most places – cheap
Chinese ones are fine for this application.

109
Drilling the charging handle recess

Prepare your power drill, upper receiver, bolt, drill recess jig and a
7mm diameter drill bit. Insert the bolt into the upper receiver.
Insert the drill recess jig into the front of the upper receiver.
Making sure the bolt does not fall out, clamp the long bolt steel
piece between the jaws of your vise. Have as much as you can of the
bolt clamped in the vise while still having the bolt be at the end on
the inside of the upper receiver.

110
Apply cutting fluid spray and then use your 7mm diameter
drill bit to drill into the opening in the recess jig. Push
the power drill forward with force trying to drill as
straight as possible at the same time.

Only drill a millimeter or two to at the beginning to get an

idea how fast you are removing material while drilling. Be
sure to constantly remove steel shavings possible with an
air spray can or simply use your cutting fluid spray and a
brush of some sort.

111
Your goal is to drill into the bolt face so that you end up with a
recess that is 6mm +-1 deep at the EDGE of the bottom of the recess.

Measure this by using the depth rod of your caliper and have the
bottom of that rod butt up against the bottom at the edge of the
recess. When you measure at the center of the recess you might measure
around 8mm, the reason is that drill bits have a 118° degree tip
usually, hence the difference in dimensions center vs edge.

112
To help the charging handle go into the recess during
operation, use sand paper to deburr/ add a radius
to the edge of the recess entrance.

113
Preparing the Fire control group

BEWARE:
YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PARTS
FOR THE 3D-PRINTED FIRE CONTROL GROUP ARE
PRINTED PROPERLY ON A CORRECTLY ASSEMBLED PRINTER.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY!
AN IMPROPERLY PRINTED OR INCORRECTLY INSTALLED
FIRE CONTROL GROUP CAN LEAD TO
UNSAFE FUNCTION OF THE FIREARM
INCLUDING ACCIDENTAL FIRING OF THE FIREARM.

When taking these 3D-printed fire control group parts off

the print bed, be very careful.

Do not damage the sear surfaces. Refer to the photo if you

are not sure where the sear surfaces are.

Take your time removing the support material.

These are delicate precision parts, treat them as such.

Refer to the included support removal videos.

114
Use a 4mm drill bit to drill out the holes of the
trigger, hammer and the disconnector. It is important to
drill straight. Drill as little as possible.
Drill carefully, stop and test whether the pin can pass
though the holes without excessive resistance before
drilling again.

You do not want the pins to be too loose.

This is especially true for the trigger and disconnector,

as the AR-15 trigger pin that will go through these two
components will be slightly smaller in diameter than the
DIN pin for the hammer.

115
Clear out the support material from the internal
channel of the trigger, take extra care to
remove the brim.

The disconnector must be able to move freely

inside the trigger channel without getting
stuck, this is very important, use sandpaper if
needed.

Again, do not damage the sear surfaces while you

clean up the parts.

116
If your disconnector spring does not fit into
its designated recess inside the channel of the
trigger because it is wider on the bottom, use
your 4mm drill and carefully remove some
material from the sides of the trigger channel.

117
Before going ahead take the DIN 84 screw and screw it
partially into the cavity on the face of the hammer,
once you made sure it does screw in, screw it out.

Mix up some JB Weld and use something like a nail or

toothpick to apply it into the hole. Add some j-b
weld to the threads of the screw and screw it into
the hammer. It does not have to be completely flush
with the face of the hammer.

Don't screw it in deeper than the face of the hammer.

118
Add a good amount of j-b weld to the top of the
screw.
After 12 hours of letting the JB weld dry, take
sand paper or a finer file and sand/file the
excess dried JB weld off the top of the screw so
that the front surface of the hammer is flat
again.

119
Take your safety selector drum
and the safety selector lever and
drill out the holes on these
parts with an 3mm diameter drill
bit.

120
Ensure that you remove any print debris or brim from
the drum, so that the locking / alignment tabs on the
levers can fit inside the slots on the drum.
Attach the lever to the drum. The correct orientation
is important, refer to the photos.
Insert the M3 30mm long socket head bolt through the
safety lever and drum.

Use a M3 nut to secure the two parts but do not over-

tighten the nut or the drum might get deformed.

121
Use a dremel tool with a metal cutting disc
to cut off the part of the socket screw
that is sticking out of the nut.

Remove the nut afterwards and then add some

JB weld to the threads on the end of the
screw.

122
Now screw the nut back on and then
add some more JB weld onto the nut.

Let the JB weld dry for at least 12

hours before further use of the fire
selector.

123
Modifying Chinese Glock Mag Springs
Text and pictures by BoostWillis

Instead of leaving it flat like in the

picture on the left,

bend the top coil with your pliers upward

to match the pitch of the coils below it
like shown in the right picture.

124
As you can see from the red guide lines, the
spring in its initial state on the left has a
bias toward one side.

Refer to the marked yellow boxes for where to

bend the spring with your pliers to correct it.

You want the top narrower coils to be centered

on top of the spring.

It doesn't have to be perfect.

125
Overall the spring is too wide causing unnecessary
friction inside the mag and robbing you of useful
spring pressure.
This is where the vise comes in.
Compress the spring in the vise as shown in multiple
spots along its length.

126
Ignore the narrower coils toward the top of the
magazine, but focus on the full width coils that make
up the main section of the magazine spring.
Use the magazine body as a guide.
If you slide the spring into the magazine body and
turn it upside down, you should be able to shake it
out without too much effort.

You don't need to get it so narrow that the tube

drops free.
Afterwards look down through the spring and identify
any coils that might have rotated out of alignment
with their neighbors and bring them back into
alignment.

127
Assembling a magazine

Gather a magazine body, a floor plate, a locking tab,

a follower and the modified magazine spring.

Clip the follower on top of the narrow end of the

magazine spring in the correct orientation.

128
Insert the magazine spring with the follower on top
into the magazine body.

While keeping the magazine spring inside the magazine

body push the locking tab onto the bottom of the
magazine spring so that it ends up being flush with
the bottom of the magazine body.

129
While pushing the magazine locking tab inside the
magazine body against the magazine spring pressure,
slide the magazine floor plate over the front on the
bottom of the magazine body and have the round
feature of the locking tab lock itself into the hole
of the magazine floor plate.

130
Assembling the lower

Get the 4mm diameter drill bit and hand ream the hole on the
lower receiver that will hold the hammer pin.

Ream only as much as needed so the drill bit can go through.

Do not ream any more than that, as this will cause issues.

131
Get the 9.5mm diameter drill bit and hand ream the hole on
the lower receiver through which the fire selector will go
into.

Ream only as much as needed so the drill bit can go through.

Do not ream any more than that, as this will cause issues.

132
Put the trigger spring onto the trigger the way you see in the
picture. Insert the disconnector spring into the trigger, if you
haven’t inserted it in there already. Push the disconnector in the
shown orientation into the trigger and hold it onto it against the
pressure of the disconnector spring.

Now hold that assembly together and insert it into the lower receiver.
While pushing this assembly through the bottom hole for the trigger on
the lower receiver, take your AR-15 trigger pin and push it through
the lower receiver as well as the lined up trigger and the
disconnector hole in the trigger.

133
Put the hammer spring onto the hammer as shown in the upper
picture. This will be challenging for you at first, but you
will manage.

Now push with the spring legs leading against the studs on
the trigger in the way shown on the picture.

You will have to fight against that spring pressure.

134
While holding the hammer in position against the
spring pressure, take the 4mm diameter DIN pin and
push it through the dedicated hole while trying to
align the hammer.

With the hammer in the up position apply grease to

the area where hammer and trigger touch each other.

135
Apply grease to the sear at the back of the
hammer as seen in the picture as well as some
grease onto the top sear surface of the trigger.

136
Take the fire selector assembly and apply grease to
the detent cutout area as you can see in the picture.

Now take the fire selector and push it through from

the left side of the lower receiver as you can see
it, in the picture.

137
With the fire selector in the position you see
in the picture, hold the lever in place and then
at the same time put the fire sector detent with
the sharp tip first inside the hole at the
bottomside of the lower receiver near the safety
selector indicators.

138