In May,2008 I went to Mompox for the second time. It was a lot simpler
arriving than I remember from the time I went in 2001. Mompox is a
town of huge significance to Colombia and northern South America. As
the statue on the left proclaims, 'if to Caracas i owe my life, then to
Mompox I owe my glory'... Simon Bolivar arrived in Mompox in 1812 and
and rode to glory in Caracas. He returned several times over the next
twenty years. The Mompox of today, the centre at least, has changed of
cattle raising going on around Mompox. The main industry though
seems to be tourism and ensuring that the town changes very little,
thereby protecting its image.
Where to Stay
Arriving in Mompox there are several options on accommodation. You
will never have a problem finding a place to stay unless you arrive during
Semana Santa when the town goes crazy religious and loads flock there
or during the Christmas holidays.
La Casa Amarilla
I would recommend backpackers stay in the newly opened Casa Amarilla,
opened by Richard McColl. Its one of the original buildings in town and its
and very nice and knowledgeable about the town. Its also in a great
location right by the river and dorms are 15.000 pesos per night.
Hotel La Casona
Its only a block from the main plaza and is a nice old colonial style house.
It costs 30.000 per person in a nice simple room with attached bathroom
and television. The direction is Carrera 2A No. 18-58 Tel 095-6855307
Dona Manuela
The most expensive option at 90.000 pesos for one and 120.000 pesos
for two this is a very nice hotel in a four hundred year old Spanish
colonial building with pool. If you want to splash out this is the nicest
place in town. Even if not staying there go in to check out the
building its real nice. You can also use the pool there if you want for
6.000 pesos
Where to Eat
Restaurante y Residencias Dona Edith on Carrera 2 does a very good
cheap lunch for only 4.000 pesos. Further down the road you can get a
good steak or chicken on the bbq at Restaurant Patio Bonito for only
6.000 pesos. Alternatively eat down by the waterfront market.
What to do
Las Vegas, Mompox is not. Its a living museum. Its a place to wander
around enjoy the surroundings and soak up the culture. The people are
very friendly and all in all its pretty cheap. There are some
nice bars to hang out in along the river. You can hire motor taxis and
also guides that can show you more about the town and take you to
places you would otherwise not have found. The cemetery believe it or
not is one of the places Mompox is most famous for. Its worth a visit and
you can admire the century old headstones. During Semana Santa there
are big festivals and processions in Mompox. Accommodation will be
almost impossible to find also.
Mompos is famous for it gold and silver jewellery. I bought a nice piece
for the misses on the last trip. Silver earings, 25.000p The street by the
river is beautiful for a stroll. Tree-lined with the oldest houses in the town.
The cemetery is one of the best looking around. Lots of cats there as well
if thats your thing. It is possible to enter many of the old houses and
view the beautiful courtyards. you can also enter the church of santa
barbara (on the right) if it is open and go up to the balcony and have a
great view of the town and river. I also visited the old peoples home.
That was pretty interesting. The Spanish arrived in Mompox over two
hundred years ago when the town was a very important port. They
brought with them wines, pianos etc. There are loads of pineapples for
sale. mompox is also a good place to buy hammocks and hats. there is a
little market alongside the river.
Mompox, while not the place to get down and party, is however blessed
with one very well located bar right on the river, called Luna de
Mompox(below). It's a great place to pass a few hours knocking back a
couple of Aguilas. The ambiente of the place is second to none. A beer
there will not set you back more than 2000 pesos. The place is a bit quiet
during the week. There are also one or two discos in the town but not
much happening there during the week. Further along the river are a
couple of
little bars also where you can drink cheap and play dominos with the
locals and watch the world go by. Very very peaceful.
The animals in Mompox do even less than the people if that is possible. If
you want to buy a rocking chair then you've come to the right place.
They make a lot them here and use more.
One of the best bars around right on the river, candles and all. Called
Luna de Mompox Unfortunately having gone to Mompox alone I had to
rent a friend, Alfonson. He wasn't bad company. Another bar has also
opened up next door playing different music. Nice also but no
competition to La Luna
Getting There and Away
Either because they don't know about the place or they think it's too far away, very very few tourists visit Mompox. It could
even be that less than five backpackers a week make the effort. Pretty sad.
Its actually not that hard to get to Mompox, it is getting easier at least. The first step is to get to Magangue, on the bank of
the river Magdalena.
from Baranquilla to Magangue : you need to go to Magangue(gateway to Mompox). Its a four hour bus trip. The cost will be
between 20.000 and 24.000 pesos. There are a couple of companies doing the route. There could also be taxi colectivos as
below which will make the trip faster.
from Cartagena to Magangue : there are buses also, a couple a day. It's a six hour trip, including the ferry ride. a better
option (one way at least) is to take a colectivo taxi which should cost 33.000 pesos and take three hours. There will be taxis
leaving from Cartagena to Magangue and vice versa every half an hour or so at least I would say.
from Magangue to Bodegas : there are colectivo fast boats leaving from the wharf (pier), whenevr they are full (should not
have to wait more than half an hour). It costs 6.000 pesos for the ride which takes less than thirty minutes. The second
option is the car/truck ferry which should cost about 2.000 or so and takes eighty minutes. The bus goes on this
ferry. NOTE : (do not leave after six in the evening or so)
from Bodegas to Mompox : There are taxi colectivos leaving whenever full, should be often for the cost of 7.000 pesos to
Mompox. A forty minute or so ride. Or you can take a motorbike for around 10.000 pesos
-so now you know. its pretty easy to do the whole lot. personally i would taxi in then get the colectivo taxi then boat and
take the direct bus back. so you experience both options.
