Wool

Introduction to Wool and Different

Types of wool fabrics
-Prepared by
-P.Lakshmana kanth, Senior Faculty – IFTK
Introduction

 Wool is the fiber derived from the fur of animals of the

Caprinae family; principally sheep. Wool was probably
the first animal fiber to be made into cloth. The art of
spinning wool into yarn developed about 4000 B.C.

 No one knows when man started using wool as a textile

fibre. The dense, soft, often curly hair forming the coat
of sheep and certain other mammals, such as the goat
and alpaca, consisting of cylindrical fibers of keratin
covered by minute overlapping scales and much valued
as a textile fabric.
What is a wool fibre?
 Wool is a protein fiber and it is
produced by the animals known as
sheep. It is unique fire with scales on
its surface.
 Wool, is a multi-cellular fiber and very
expensive in price.
Wool Producers in the World.

 Australia  South-Africa
 Russia  France
 New-Zealand  Turkey
 USA  Brazil
 UK  China etc.,
Raw materials
 In scientific terms, wool is considered to
be a protein called keratin. Its length
usually ranges from 1.5 to 15 inches
(3.8 to 38 centimeters) depending on
the breed of sheep. Each piece is made
up of three essential components:
 the cuticle,
 the cortex, and
 the medulla.
• The cuticle is the outer layer.
• It is a protective layer of scales arranged like
shingles or fish scales.
• When two fibers come in contact with each
other, these scales tend to cling and stick to
each other.
• It's this physical clinging and sticking that
allows wool fibers to be spun into thread so
easily.
• The cortex is the inner structure made up of
millions of cigar-shaped cortical cells.
• In natural-colored wool, these cells contain
melanin.
• The arrangement of these cells is also
responsible for the natural crimp unique to
wool fiber.
• Rarely found in fine wools, the medulla
comprises a series of cells (similar to
honeycombs) that provide air spaces, giving
wool its thermal insulation value.
• Wool, like residential insulation, is effective in
reducing heat transfer.
The manufacturing Process
 The major steps necessary to process
wool from the sheep to the fabric are:
 shearing,
 cleaning and scouring,
 grading and sorting,
 carding,
 spinning,
 weaving, and finishing.
Shearing
 Sheep are sheared once a year usually in the
springtime.
 A veteran shearer can shear up to two hundred
sheep per day.
 The fleece recovered from a sheep can weigh
between 6 and 18 pounds (2.7 and 8.1 kilograms);
as much as possible, the fleece is kept in one piece.
 While most sheep are still sheared by hand, new
technologies have been developed that use
computers and sensitive, robot-controlled arms to do
the clipping.
Grading and Sorting
 Grading is the breaking up of the fleece based on
overall quality.
 In sorting, the wool is broken up into sections of
different quality fibers, from different parts of the
body.
 The best quality of wool comes from the shoulders
and sides of the sheep and is used for clothing; the
lesser quality comes from the lower legs and is used
to make rugs.
 In wool grading, high quality does not always mean
high durability.
• Wool is also separated into grades based on the measurement
of the wool's diameter in microns. These grades may vary
depending on the breed or purpose of the wool.

• For example:

• < 17.5 - Ultra fine merino

• 17.6-18.5 - Superfine merino
• < 19.5 - Fine merino
• 19.6-20.5 - Fine medium merino
• 20.6-22.5 - Medium merino
• 22.6 < - Strong merino

[Or]
•
• < 24.5 - Fine
• 24.5-31.4 - Medium
• 31.5-35.4 - Fine crossbred
• 35.5 < - coarse crossbred
•
Breeds of sheep are grouped according to
the type of wool they grow
 Fine
Rambouillet, Merino
 Crossbred (fine x medium)
Targhee, Corriedale, Columbia
 Medium (fine x long)
Suffolk, Hampshire, Dorset,
Cheviot, Montadale, Southdown,
Shropshire, Tunis, Polypay
 Long (coarse)
Romney, Border Leicester,
Lincoln, Cotswold
 Carpet (double-coated)
Scottish Blackface, Karakul,
Icelandic
 Hair (shedding) - not sheared
Katahdin, Dorper, Barbado
Fleece

Sheared off in one piece

Grease or raw wool is wool as

it is shorn from the sheep.
Cleaning and Scouring
 Wool taken directly from the sheep is called "raw" or "grease
wool."
 It contains sand, dirt, grease, and dried sweat (called suint); the
weight of contaminants accounts for about 30 to 70 percent of
the fleece's total weight.
 To remove these contaminants, the wool is scoured in a series
of alkaline baths containing water, soap, and soda ash or a
similar alkali.
 The byproducts from this process (such as lanolin) are saved
and used in a variety of household products.
 Rollers in the scouring machines squeeze excess water from the
fleece, but the fleece is not allowed to dry completely.
 Following this process, the wool is often treated with oil to give
it increased manageability.
Differences between woolen
and Worsted
 In the spinning operation, the wool roving is drawn out
anti twisted into yarn. Woolen are chiefly spun on the
mule spinning machine. Worsted yarns are spun on any
kind of spinning machine mule, ring cap or flyer.
 The differences between woolen and worsted yarns are as
follows:
Woolen Worsted
Short staple Lang staple
Carded only Carded and combed
Slack twisted Tightly twisted
Weaker Stronger
Bulkier Finer, smoother, even fibres
Softer Harder
Physical & Chemical Properties
of Wool
Fineness – fiber diameter

Thickness of the wool fiber

Measured in microns (one millionth of a meter - µ)
Fineness - fiber diameter
Long
Coarse Medium
Crossbred

Fine
$$$$

Thicker Thinner
> 40 µ < 17µ

Grade refers to the relative diameter of the wool fibers (fineness).

Fiber diameter Short, dirty

 Coarser

 Coarser
Britch
Breech
(hairy) 

Short, dirty, kinky

Polypay
Crimp
The natural curl or waviness in the wool fiber.

Fine wool usually has more crimp per inch than coarse (long) wool.
Staple
Refers to the length of a (un-stretched) lock of shorn
wool.

Long, coarse

Medium Coarse wools

are usually
longer than finer
wools.

Fine
Vegetable matter (VM)
Any material of plant origin found in
the fleece (hay, grass, seeds, etc.)

High VM lowers yield.

Tag
Wool that has manure attached to it.
Lanolin
A natural oil extracted from sheep’s wool.

Used to make
ointments and
cosmetics.

Also called wool wax, wool fat, or wool grease.

Skirting
Removing the stained, unusable, or undesirable
portions of a fleece (bellies, top knots, tags).

Show fleeces and

other high value
fleeces should be
skirted at the time of
shearing.
Yield
The amount of clean wool that remains after
scouring. Expressed as a percentage.

Wool yield is quite

variable: 40 to 70%.

Long wools have higher

yields than fine wools,
due to less grease.

Bulky fleeces have

higher yields.

Clean wool yield = Raw wool – shrinkage (VM, grease, impurities)

Vegetable matter affects yield

Other contaminants: soil, dust, polypropylene from tarps, feed sacks,

and hay baling twine, paint, skin, external parasites, and foreign objects.
Length

Staple length adds weight to the fleece

more than any other characteristic.

Look for uniformity of length

Quality or fineness

Appropriate grade for breed or type.

Look for uniformity of grade (fineness).
Finer wools are permitted less variability.
Soundness (strength)
Tender wool is wool that is weak and/or
breaks due to poor nutrition or sickness.

This wool does not have a break or tender spot.

Purity
Freedom from pigmented fibers, hair and kemp.

Black fiber/hairs
Hair
Kemp

From a hair sheep The commercial wool

market favors white
wool that can be dyed
any color.
Character
General appearance of a fleece:
crimp, handle, and color.
Weathered tips
Affects dyeing

“Tippy” wool
1. Strength
 Wool fibres are weak but wool fabrics are very
durable.
 The durability of wool is the result of the excellent
elongation and elastic recovery of the fibres.
 Fibre strength is not always an indication of durability
since flexibility of the fibre and its resistance to
abrasion is also important.
 The tear strength of wool is poor. Wool is fair
abrasion resistance.
 Flexibility of wool is excellent.
 They can be bent back on themselves 20,000 times
without breaking.
2. Resilience
 Wool is a very resilient fibre. Its resiliency is greatest
when it is dry and lowest when it is wet.
 It a wool fabric is crushed in the hand, it tends to
spring back to its original position when the hand is
opened.
 Because wool fibre has a high degree of resilience,
wool fabric wrinkles less than some others; wrinkles
disappear when the garment or fabric is steamed.
 Good wool is very soft and resilient, poor wool is
harsh. When buying a wool fabric, grasp a handful to
determine its quality.
3. Heat Conductivity
 As wool fibres are poor conductor of heat, they
permit the body to retain its normal temperature.
 Wool garments are excellent for winter clothing and
are protective on damp days throughout the year.
 The scales on the surface of a fibre and the crimp in
the fibre create little pockets or air that serve as
insulative barriers and give the garment greater
warmth.
4. Absorbency
 Initially, wool tends to be water-repellent.
 One can observe that droplets of water on
the surface of wool fabrics are readily
brushed off.
 Wool can absorb about 20% of its weight in
water without feeling damp; consequently,
wool fabrics tend to feel comfortable rather
than clammy or chilly.
 Wool also dries slowly.
5. Cleanliness & Wash-ability
 Dirt tends to adhere to wool fabric.
 Consequently, wool requires frequent dry cleaning or
laundering if the fabric is washable.
 Extreme care is required in laundering.
 Wool is softened by moisture and heat, and shrinking
and felting occur when the fabric is washed.
 Since wool temporarily loses about 25% of its
strength when wet wool fabrics should never be
pulled while wet.
6. Effect of Heat
 Wool becomes harsh at 212°F (100°C) and
begins to decompose at slightly higher
temperatures.
 Wool has a plastic quality in that it can be
expressed and shaped at steam temperature,
whether in fabric as for slacks and jackets, or
in felt, as for hats.
• 7. Effect of Light - Wool is weakened by
prolonged exposure to sunlight.

• 8. Resistance to Mildew - Wool is not

ordinarily susceptible to mildew, but if left in
a damp condition, mildew develops.
9. Reaction to Alkalis
 Wool is quickly damaged by strong alkalis.
 The alkali test can be used to identify wool and wool
blends.
 The wool reacts to the alkali by turning yellow, then
becoming stick and jellylike, and finally going into
solution.
 If the fabric is a blend, the wool in the blend will
disintegrate, leaving only the other fibres.
 Mild alkali-in warm or cool water-can is used in
scouring the raw wool fibres to remove grease.
10. Reaction to Acids
 Although wool is damaged by hot sulphuric
acid, it is not affected by other acids, even
when heated.
 Acids are used in the manufacture of wool
fabrics to remove cellulose impurities, such as
leaves or burrs that may still be in the fabric
after weaving.
 This treatment is called carbonizing.
11. Affinity for Dyes
 Because of their high affinity for dyes,
wool fabrics dye well and evenly.
 The use of chrome dyes assures
fastness of colour.
 A variety of other dyes may be
effectively used.
12. Resistance to Perspiration
 Wool is weakened by alkali perspiration.
 Garments should be dry cleaned or washed
with care to avoid deterioration and odor.
 Perspiration, generally, will cause
dis-coloration.
13. Flammability
 Wools burns very slowly and it self-
extinguishing.
 It is normally regarded as flame-
resistant.
 For curtains, carpets and upholstery to
be used in trains, planes, ships, hotels
and other public buildings, wool is often
given a flame-retardant finish.
14. Press Retention
 Wool also has good press retention. It takes and
holds creases well.
 Creases are set by use of pressure, heat and
moisture.
 During pressing the fibre molecules adjust
themselves to the new position by forming new
cross-linkages.
 Creases in wool are not permanent, however,
since they can be removed by moisture.
Different grades of Wool
 Different grades of wool are assigned
numbers that range from 36-80. (36s-
80s) The higher the number the finer
the fibre.
 The grades fall into 4 basic types-
 fines,
 medium,
 coarse and
 carpet.
Grades of Wool
 The coarsest grades (36-48) include
fibres of 30 microns or more in
diameter and 6” or more in length.
 They are ideal for rugged tweeds,
durable coatings, thick dense blankets
and resilient carpets.
Grades of Wool
 The medium grades (50-60) include
fibres of 24-30 microns in diameter and
4.5 -6 inches long.
 Medium grades are used to make a
wide variety of high quality woolens,
from fine tweeds, dressy flannels and
soft coatings to sweaters, hosiery,
knitting yarns and felt.
Grades of Wool
 The finest grades (62-80) include fibres
from 15-23 microns in diameter and 1.5
– 4.5 inches in length.
 Fine wool is used to make worsted
yarns and high quality fabrics,
especially for the menswear industry.
 Most fine wools come from the merino
sheep, but wool from other breeds is
also used.
Grades of Wool
 The finest of the fine wools is known as
superfine wools –Super80s, Super100s,
and Super 120s
Behaviour of Wool Fabrics
 Wool sheds wrinkles, but can be pressed to hold
sharp pleats and folds
 It stretches easily, but won’t sag, droop or lose its
shape.
 It can be styled to drape softly against the body or
manipulated to hold a shape, such as a perfectly
rolled collar or the curved brim of a hat.
Behaviour of Wool Fabrics – Contd...
 Wool fiber dyes beautifully, all the way to the
core and it holds the colour forever. It can be
dyed in almost any colour –from the palest to
bright reds.
 Wool is strong and durable-it resists abrasion
and is difficult to tear. Garments are easy to
keep clean as the dirt sits on the surface of
the fabric rather than penetrate into the fibre.
Behaviour of Wool Fabrics – Contd...

 Wool is naturally fire resistant-it is slow

to burn and will self extinguish when
the flame is removed.
 Wool can be made into fabrics that are
thick and dense, but not very heavy.
This is because wool’s natural crimp
adds volume by creating tiny pockets of
air between the fibres.
Behaviour of Wool Fabrics – Contd...
 Wools natural waviness or crimp gives it
many advantaged over other textile fibres-
elasticity, flexibility, resilience and loft.
 It can be stretched 30 % and will spring back
to size when the tension is released. Wool
garments will not stretch out of shape, but
will move with the body, making it
comfortable to wear.
Behaviour of Wool Fabrics – Contd...

 Although wool has many desirable

qualities, there are some limitations too.
 It has extreme reaction to alkalis, hence
bleaches and detergents should be used
with care.
 Wool is only moderately resistant to
heat and is easily damaged by incorrect
pressing or hot direct heat
Behaviour of Wool Fabrics – Contd...
 Moth larvae will eat wool; small fuzz balls
(pills) tend to form on the surface of wool
fabrics. Softly twisted yarns, loose weaves,
woollen fabrics and knits are more prone to
pilling than worsteds.
 Wool fabrics tend to shrink if not washed
carefully. Hand washing or dry cleaning is
recommended. Pressing should always be
done with steam –place a damp cloth over the
fabric when pressing
Behaviour of Wool Fabrics – Contd...
 Wool is one of the easiest fibres to cut and sew.
 Other fabrics are difficult to cut and also sew
 Mismatched pieces can be nudged together with no
sign of a stretch mark or ripple, stitches can be
removed without leaving a hole and unwanted
creases can be made to disappear.
 Wool is more difficult to press than other fabrics, but
if done properly, it results in a good appearance.
Wool fabrics
Challis
 A high quality, light weight , soft cloth,
 It is usually made with tightly spun worsted yarns
and a firm plain weave.
 It is one of the few printed wools, most often a floral
or paisley design against a darker colour.
 The original cloth was made in England from a
combination of silk and worsted yarns.
 Wool challis drapes beautifully,
and is easy to sew. It will not
hold a crease, but is well suited
for un-pressed pleats, gathers,
cowl necklines, and other
draped elements Close fitting
styles that put stress on the
seams should be avoided as the
fabric tends to pull apart at
seams and also puckers. Ideal
for making skirts, dresses and
scarves.
Wool Crepe
 A popular light weight fabric
made with highly twisted crepe
yarns, giving it a crinkled ,
grainy texture.
 Wool crepe is available in a
variety of weights and qualities.
 The fabric drapes well and is
best for styles that are draped
or slightly gathered into loose
fullness but may also be used
to make elegant tailored
garments.
Woollen flannel
 The fabric may have a soft fuzzy nap on one or both
sides.
 The warp yarns are stronger and finer than the
filling yarns which are softly twisted to in order to
produce the nap when the fabric is brushed.
 The nap adds warmth to the fabric because of the
entrapped air pockets.
 Good quality flannel is made of fine yarns and a snug
twill weave , while lower quality flannel is made of
thicker yarns and loose twill or even a plain weave.
 Woollen flannel is one of
the most common wools ,
available in a variety of
weights, solid colours and
plaids.
 It is easy to sew and cut
and is used to make
shirts, skirts, dresses and
softly tailored jackets and
suits.
Worsted flannel
 Worsted flannel is different from the above in that it
is made of worsted yarns that are in turn made of
finer fibres and better quality wool.
 Worsted flannel is given only a slight nap, so it is
smoother than woollen flannel.
 It is available in various weights , but only a few
colours –shades of brown, blue, grey and black.
 Patterned weaves and plaids
are not as common as solid
colours or faint length wise
stripes.
 The fabric has a lot of body
and will hold the shape of
the garment especially when
supported by good inner
construction.
 Used for menswear
Gabardine
 Gabardine is Spanish in origin and dates back to the
Middle ages when it described a protective cloak.
 Today it describes a popular fabric with a smooth
face and a dull sheen made with a tight twill weave
and worsted yarns.
 The wrap has twice as many threads per inch as the
filling.
 True gabardine has a distinct closely set diagonal rib
on the face and a flat, plain back. The angle of the
twill may be 45 or 65 degrees.
 The steeper line is more common for menswear,
while the other is for women’s-wear.
 Gabardine comes in a range of
weights and qualities. Best grades
are soft and drape well, lesser
grades may feel harsh , rough or
stiff.
 Gabardine works best with tailored
designs that have clean simple
lines and gentle curves because
the tight weave is difficult to ease.
Tweed
 Tweed is a popular rough textured woollen fabric
made with a 2x2 twill.
 Tweed may be woven with checked, striped or
plaid patterns, or it may be mono-coloured,
woven with different shades of the same colour.
 It is often dyed in the wool, with fibres of
different colours mixed together before spinning
to produce yarns with colourful specks and slubs.
 The weight varies, but it is usually a thick
substantial fabric that is suitable for sports
jackets, coats and caps.
Plaids
 Plaids –are any fabric with a pattern of multi-
coloured bars and stripes that run in both directions
and cross at right angles.
 The colours may be muted or bold and the pattern
may be large or small.
 The original plaids were made in Scotland. Plaids are
woven into a variety of fabrics , from thick double
cloths to elegant worsted suitings.
 Plaids are difficult to work with –it
demands extra time, patience and a
lot of attention to detail.
 The lines of the plaids have to match
in both directions if the garment is to
be rated as one of high quality.
 The best styles are those which have
simple lines and minimum of seams.
 Plaids require extra fabric and a one
way layout.
Houndstooth
 Houndstooth is a very popular broken check
pattern used to make woollen and worsted fabrics in
a variety of weights and qualities.
 Houndstooth is made with a variation of the twill
weave that alternates four yarns to the left and four
yarns to the right.
 Most versions are woven in two colours of yarn-one
light and the other dark which are arranged in groups
of four in both directions of the weave.
 The checks vary in size-the
small pattern is called ‘mini
houndstooth’.
 As it is yarn dyed, the fabric
looks the same on both sides ,
so it is easy to confuse
unassembled pieces of fabric.
 Houndstooth looks great
when paired with a matching
solid.
Herringbone
 Herringbone is a popular variation of the twill weave,
made by changing the direction of the diagonal twill
line , so that it zigzags across a fabric at evenly
spaced intervals.
 The pattern is distinct when the twill lines within one
section are woven with alternating colours.
 Herringbone should be
treated as a striped fabric
with a one –way design.
 It may not be necessary
to match the stripes at
every seam, but special
attention is required for
patch pockets, pocket
welts, flaps and similar
details.