INSTRUCTION MANUAL

FOR ALT-AZIMUTH MOUNT

AZ1 & AZ2 MOUNTS

Refractor/AZ2
B
C
D
AZ2
F E A
G A. Dust Cap / Mask
(Remove before Viewing)
H B. Dew Cap / Sun Shade
C. Objective Lens
I 5 D. Telescope Main Tube
E. Finderscope
F. Finderscope Bracket

4 Reflector/AZ1 G. Alignment Screws

H. Focus Locking Screw
2 3
I. Eyepiece
J. Diagonal
1 K. Focus Tube
J K L
E F L. Focus Knob

D 1. Altitude fine-adjustment
control
a G 2. Azimuth Lock
C 3. Yoke Mount
H 4. Altitude Lock Knob
B 5. Yoke Locking Knob
I
a. Accessory Tray
b b. Tripod Leg
c. Height Adjustment
Clamp
A
c 5
J
4
3 2 1

a AZ1

A. Secondary Mirror Position

b B. Dust Cap / Mask
(Remove before Viewing)
C. Focus Tube
D. Finderscope Bracket
E. Finderscope
F. Finderscope Adjustment
Screws
G. Eyepiece
H. Focus Knob
I. Telescope Main Tube
J. Primary Mirror Position

1. Yoke Locking Knob

2. Altitude Lock Knob
3. Azimuth Lock Knob
c 4. Yoke
5. Altitude Fine Adjustment
Control
a. Accessory Tray
b. Tripod Leg
c. Height Adjustment
Clamp

2
AZ3 MOUNTS

AZ3
B
C
A D F A. Dust Cap / Mask
G (Remove before Viewing)
E B. Dew Cap / Sun Shade
H C. Objective Lens
D. Piggyback Bracket
E. Telescope Main Body
F. Finderscope
I G. Finderscope Bracket
H. Alignment Screws
I. Focus Tube
J j. Eyepiece
K. Diagonal
4 L. Focus Knob
K
1. Azimuth Flexible Control
Cable
L 2. Altitude Flexible Control
Cable
3. Yoke Mount

a. Accessory Tray
b. Tripod Leg
1 c. Height Adjustment Clamp

Optional Multi-function
Plate

3
TABLE OF CONTENTS

Assembling Your Telescope 5

For AZ1 & AZ2

Tripod Set up 5
Telescope Assembly 5
Finderscope Assembly 6
Eyepiece Assembly 6
For AZ3
Tripod Set up 7
Telescope Assembly 7
Finderscope Assembly 8
Eyepiece Assembly 8

Operating Your Telescope 9

Aligning the Finderscope 9

Operating the AZ1 Mount 9
Operating the AZ2 Mount 9
Operating the AZ3 Mount 10
Using the Barlow Lens 10
Focusing 10
Using the Camera Adapter Tube 11
Pointing Your Telescope 11
Calculating the Magnification (power) 12
Calculating the Field of View 12
Calculating the Exit Pupil 12

Observing the Sky 13

Sky Conditions 13
Selecting an Observing Site 13
Choosing the Best Time to Observe 13
Chooling the Telescope 13
Using Your Eyes 13

Proper Care for Your Telescope 14

Collimating a Newtonian 14
Cleaning Your Telescope 15

Suggested Reading 16

Before you begin Caution!

This instruction manual is applicable to all the Never use your telescope to look directly at the sun.
models listed on the cover. Take a moment to Permanent eye damage will result. Use a proper solar
find the model closest to your telescope on p.2 filter for viewing the sun. When observing the sun,
and p.3. Follow the instructions for your specific place a dust cap over your finderscope to protect it
model in the manual. Read the entire instructions from exposure. Never use an eyepiece-type solar filter
carefully before beginning. Your telesope should and never use your telescope to project sunlight onto
be assembled during daylight hours. Choose a another surface, the internal heat build-up will damage
large, open area to work to allow room for all the telescope optical elements.
parts to be unpackaged.
FOR AZ1 & AZ2

TRIPOD SET UP
Fig.1 ASSEMBLING TRIPOD LEGS (Fig.1)

1) Gently push middle section of each tripod leg at the top so that the
pointed foot protrudes below the tripod clamp.
2) Insert tripod lock screws into the thread holes on the side of the tripod and
clamp without over-tightening.
Fig. 2

ATTACHING MOUNT TO TRIPOD LEGS (Fig. 2)

3) Fasten the top of each tripod leg to the bottom of the yoke mount
using the machine screws with the washers and wingnuts. Align each
leg so that the hinge for the accessory tray faces inwards. Be careful
not to over-tighten the wingnuts and damage tripod legs.

ATTACHING THE ACCESSORY TRAY (Fig. 3)

1) Attach accessory tray to hinges on tripod legs using
the small machine screws and wing nuts.
Flange fits under accessory tray when attached.

Fig. 3

TELESCOPE ASSEMBLY
Fig. 4.
Fig. 4
AZ1 (reflector) AZ2 (refractor)

ATTACHING TELESCOPE
MAIN TUBE TO MOUNT
(Fig. 4, 5, 6, 7)
1) Unscrew the machine screw
on the altitude control locking
knob. Fig. 5
Fig. 5 2) Insert the micro-adjustable
altitude control into the hole
on the side of the altitude
control locking knob.

5
TELESCOPE ASSEMBLY
Fig. 6 Fig. 6
AZ1 (reflector) AZ2 (refractor)

(-continued from p. 2)
3) Slide telescope tube into slots
on end of yoke mount. Secure
telescope tube onto yoke mount
using the yoke locking knobs Fig. 7
without overtightening.
Fig. 7 4) Remove machine screw from
telescope tube and use this
to fasten the micro-adjustable
altitude control.

FINDERSCOPE ASSEMBLY
Fig. 8
Fig. 8
AZ1 (reflector) AZ2 (refractor)

ATTACHING THE FINDERSCOPE

(Fig. 8, 9)
Fig. 9
1) Locate finderscope optical assembly.
Fig. 9 2) Remove the two knurled thumbscrews
near the end of the telescope main tube.
3) Position the finderscope bracket over
the screws in the telescope main body.
4) Secure the finderscope bracket with the
two knurled thumbscrews.

EYEPIECE ASSEMBLY
AZ1 (reflector) AZ2 (refractor)
INSERTING EYEPIECE (Fig. 10)
1) Unscrew the thumbscrews on the end of the focus
INSERTING EYEPIECE tube to remove the plastic endcap.
(Fig. 10) 2) Insert diagonal and re-tighten thumbscrews
to hold diagonal in place.
Fig. 10 1) Unscrew the thumbscrews 3) Loosen the thumbscrews on the diagonal.
on the end of the focus 4) Insert the desired eyepiece into diagonal
tube to remove the black and secure by re-tightening
plastic end-cap. thumbscrews.
2) Insert the desired eyepiece Fig. 10
and re-tighten thumb
screws to hold eyepieces
in place.

6
FOR AZ3
TRIPOD SET UP
ASSEMBLING TRIPOD LEGS (Fig. 1)
Fig. 1
1) Gently push middle section of each tripod leg at the top so that the
pointed foot protrudes below the tripod clamp.
2) Insert tripod lock screws into the thread holes on the side of the tripod
clamp without over-tightening.

Fig. 2.

ATTACHING MOUNT TO TRIPOD LEGS (Fig. 2)

3) Fasten the top of each tripod leg to the bottom of the yoke mount
using the machine screws with the washers and wingnuts. Align each
leg so that the hinge for the accessory tray faces inwards. Be careful
not to over-tighten the wingnuts and damage tripod legs.

ATTACHING THE ACCESSORY TRAY (Fig. 3) Fig. 3

1) Locate tripod leg brace.
2) Use the screws already attached to the tripod hinges to mount the tray platform.
3) Secure the accessory tray on top of the tray platform using the thumbscrews
already attached.

TELESCOPE ASSEMBLY
Without multi-function plate With multi-function plate Fig. 4.
Fig. 4.
ATTACHING THE TUBE
ATTACHING THE TUBE RINGS TO MOUNT(Fig. 4)
RINGS TO MOUNT(Fig. 4) 1) Remove the tube rings-multifunction
plate assembly from telescope by
1) Remove the tube rings from releasing their thumbnuts and opening
telescope by releasing their their hinges.
thumb nuts and opening 2) Using one of the three threaded holes
their hinges. in the multif-function pate ring-plate
2) Fasten the tube rings to the assembly to the mounting plateform.
mount using the wench Turn the knurled black wheel directly
provided. underneath the mounting platform
on the alt-az mount while holding
the tube rings in place to secure
ATTACHING THE TELESCOPE the telescope in place.
Fig. 5
MAIN TUBE TO TUBE RINGS (Fig. 5)
ATTACHING THE TELESCOPE
1) Find the center of balance of Fig. 5 MAIN TUBE TO TUBE
the telescope tube. Place this RINGS (Fig. 5)
in between the two tube rings.
1) Remove the telescope tube from
Close the hinges around the
the paper covering.
telescope and fasten securely
2) Place telescope tube in between
by tightening the thumb nuts.
the two tube rings. Close the
Do not over-tighten the thumb
hinges around the telescope and
nuts.
fasten securely by tightening the
thumb nuts without over-tightening.

7
TELESCOPE ASSEMBLY
Fig. 6.

INSTALLING CONTROL CABLES (Fig. 6)

1) Slide the sleeve end of the cable over the nipple
on the end of the worm gear. Secure the cable by tightening
the set screw against the flat surface on the nipple.

FINDERSCOPE ASSEMBLY
Small finderscope Large finderscope
ATTACHING THE FINDER- ATTACHING THE FINDERSCOPE
SCOPE (7) BRACKET (7)
1) Locate finderscope optical 1) Locate finderscope optical assembly.
assembly. 2) Slide finderscope assembly into the rectancular
2) Remove the two knurled slot and tighten the thumbscrew to hold the bracket
thumbscrews near the end in place.
Fig. 7
of the telescope main body. Fig. 7
3) Position the finderscope
bracket over the screws in
the telescope main body.
4) Secure the finderscope
bracket with the two knurled
thumbscrews.

EYEPIECE ASSEMBLY

Fig. 8 INSERTING DIAGONAL AND EYEPIECE (Fig. 8)

1) Loosen the thumbscrew on the end

of the focus tube.
2) Insert a diagonal into the focus tube and
re-tighten the thumbscrew to hold the
diagonal in place.
3) Loosen the thumbscrews on the diagonal.
4) Insert the desired eyepiece into the diagonal
and secure by re-tightening the thumbscrews.

8
OPERATING YOUR TELESCOPE
Aligning the finderscope
Fig.b These fixed magnification scopes mounted on the optical tube are very
Fig.a
useful accessories. When they are correctly aligned with the telescope,
objects can be quickly located and brought to the centre of the field.
Alignment is best done outdoors in day light when it's easier to locate
objects. If it is necessary to refocus your finderscope, sight on an object
that is at least 500 yards (metres) away. For 5x24 finderscope: twist the
end of the finderscope until focus is reached (Fig.a). For 6x30 finderscope:
loosen the locking ring by unscrewing it back towards the bracket. The
Fig.c front lens holder can now be turned in and out to focus. When focus is
reached, lock it in position with the locking ring (Fig.b).

1) Choose a distant object that is at least 500 yards away and point the
main telescope at the object. Adjust the telescope so that the object
is in the centre of the view in your eyepiece.
2) Check the finderscope to see if the object centred in the main tele-
scope view is centred on the crosshairs.
3) For the 5x24 finderscope, use the three alignment screws to centre
the finderscope crosshairs on the object (Fig.c). For the 6x30 finder-
Fig.d scope with spring loading, adjust only the two small screws (Fig.d).

Fig.e

Operating the AZ1 mount

Altitude adjustment

This telescope has an altitude(up-down)-

azimuth(left-right) mount to control telescope
movements. Loosen the azimuth lock knob
to make left-right direction movements then Altitude fine adjustment
tighten to lock. Loosen the altitude lock knob
to make course up-down changes. Altitude
fine adjustments can be made by rotating
Azimuth adjustment
the knurled wheel on the altitude fine
adjustment rod after tightening the altitude
lock knob. (Fig.e)

Operating the AZ2 mount Fig.f

Same as the AZ1 mount above. (Fig.f)

Altitude adjustment

Altitude fine adjustment

Azimuth adjustment

9
OPERATING YOUR TELESCOPE

Operating the AZ3 mount Fig.e Azimuth locking knob

This mount has controls for movement in altitude

(up-down) and azimuth (left-right). Coarse azimuth
movement is controlled by a locking knob located Altitude fine adjustment
near the tripod head for left-right rotation. Loosen
the knob to make large direction changes then lock
it for fine adjustments. Coarse Altitude movement
is controlled by a friction bolt. Use the micro-
adjustment control cables to make small altitude
and azimuth movements such as centreing
objects in view. The microadjustment controls
have limited travel so it is best to contre them
on their threads before making a coarse Azimuth fine adjustment
adjustment. (Fig. e)

Using the Barlow lens Fig.f Eyepiece

Barlow
A Barlow is a negative lens which increases the magnifying power
of an eyepiece, while reducing the field of view. It expands the cone
of the focussed light before it reaches the focal point, so that the
telescope's focal length appears longer to the eyepiece.

The Barlow is inserted between the focuser and the eyepiece in a reflector, and usually between the
diagonal and the eyepiece in a refractor or a catadioptric (Fig.f). With some telescopes, it can also be inserted
between the focuser and the diagonal, and in this position it gives even greater magnification. For example,
a Barlow which is 2X when inserted after the diagonal can become 3X when placed in front of the diagonal.

In addition to increasing magnification, the benefits of using a Barlow lens include improved eye relief,
and reduced spherical aberration in the eyepiece. For this reason, a Barlow plus a lens often outperform
a single lens producing the same magnification. However, its greatest value may be that a Barlow can
potentially double the number of eyepiece in your collection.

Focusing Fig.g

Slowly turn the focus knobs under the focuser,

one way or the other, until the image in the
eyepiece is sharp (Fig.g). The image usually
has to be finely refocused over time, due to
small variations caused by temperature changes,
flexures, etc. This often happens with short focal
ratio telescopes, particularly when they haven't
yet reached outside temperature. Refocusing
is almost always necessary when you change
an eyepiece or add or remove a Barlow lens.

10
Using the Camera Adapter Tube
When you connect a camera directly to your telescope for "prime focus" photography, you sometimes require
an adapter so that the camera can be focussed. Some reflectors need more length than the focuser can travel,
in order to focus the camera, and some refractors are designed to be used with diagonals, so when used with
only a camera, their focal length has to be extended. This is particularly true when photographing near objects.
Your camera with its telescope "lens" may focus on a distant object such as a star, but will require the 2.5"
camera adapter tube to focus on a near object such as a bird.

The camera adapter tube is easily installed by Fig.h

screwing it onto the T-threads of the eyepiece
holder, then screwing the specific T-adapter ring
for your camera onto the T-threads on the other
Focuser
end of the camera adapter tube. This makes the
telescope into a "lens" which you then attach to
your camera as you would any other lens. Eyepiece Camera Adapter T-adapter
Holder Tube Camera

Pointing your telescope

Pointing an altitude-azimuth (alt-az) mounted telescope is relatively easy. With the mount level, you can swivel
the telescope around on a plane parallel to your horizon and then tilt it up and down from there (Fig.c). You can
think of it as turning your telescope in azimuth until it is facing the horizon below a celestial object and then
tilting it up to the object's altitude. However, the Earth rotates and therefore the stars are constantly moving,
so to track with this mount you need to constantly nudge the optical tube in both azimuth and altitude to keep
the object in the field.

In reference material for your local position, the altitude will be listed as ±degrees (minutes, seconds) above
or below your horizon. Azimuth may be listed by the cardinal compass points such as N, SW, ENE, etc., but
it is usually listed in 360 degree (minutes, seconds) steps clockwise from North (0°), with East, South and
West being 90°, 180° and 270 °, respectively (Fig.i).
Zenith
Fig.i

Meridian
Line

Tilt in
Altitude
(270°) W
N (0°/360°)
(90°)
Nadir

(180°) S Rotate in Azimuth

E
Nadir

11
OPERATING YOUR TELESCOPE

Calculating the magnification (power)

The magnification produced by a telescope is determined by the focal length of the eyepiece that is used
with it. To determine a magnification for your telescope, divide its focal length by the focal length of the
eyepieces you are going to use. For example, a 10mm focal length eyepiece will give 80X magnification
with an 800mm focal length telescope.

Focal length of the telescope 800mm

magnification = = = 80X
Focal length of the eyepiece 10mm

When you are looking at astronomical objects, you are looking through a column of air that reaches to the
edge of space and that column seldom stays still. Similarly, when viewing over land you are often looking
through heat waves radiating from the ground, house, buildings, etc. Your telescope may be able to give
very high magnification but what you end up magnifying is all the turbulence between the telescope and
the subject. A good rule of thumb is that the usable magnification of a telescope is about 2X per mm of
aperture under good conditions.

Calculating the field of view

The size of the view that you see through your telescope is called the true (or actual) field of view and it is
determined by the design of the eyepiece. Every eyepiece has a value, called the apparent field of view,
which is supplied by the manufacturer. Field of view is usually measured in degrees and/or arc-minutes
(there are 60 arc-minutes in a degree). The true field of view produced by your telescope is calculated by
dividing the eyepiece's apparent field of view by the magnification that you previously calculated for the
combination. Using the figures in the previous magnification example, if your 10mm eyepiece has an
apparent field of view of 52 degrees, then the true field of view is 0.65 degrees or 39 arc-minutes.

Apparent Field of View

True Field of View =
Magnification

To put this in perspective, the moon is about 0.5° or 30 arc-minutes in diameter, so this combination would
be fine for viewing the whole moon with a little room to spare. Remember, too much magnification and too
small a field of view can make it very hard to find things. It is usually best to start at a lower magnification
with its wider field and then increase the magnification when you have found what you are looking for. First
find the moon then look at the shadows in the craters!

Calculating the exit pupil

The Exit Pupil is the diameter (in mm) of the narrowest point of the cone of light leaving your telescope.
Knowing this value for a telescope-eyepiece combination tells you whether your eye is receiving all of the
light that your primary lens or mirror is providing. The average person has a fully dilated pupil diameter of
about 7mm. This value varies a bit from person to person, is less until your eyes become fully dark adapted
and decreases as you get older. To determine an exit pupil, you divide the diameter of the primary of your
telescope (in mm) by the magnification.

Diameter of Primary mirror in mm

Exit Pupil =
Magnification

For example, a 200mm f/5 telescope with a 40mm eyepiece produces a magnification of 25x and an exit
pupil of 8mm. This combination can probably be used by a young person but would not be of much value
to a senior citizen. The same telescope used with a 32mm eyepiece gives a magnification of about 31x and
an exit pupil of 6.4mm which should be fine for most dark adapted eyes. In contrast, a 200mm f/10 telescope
with the 40mm eyepiece gives a magnification of 50x and an exit pupil of 4mm, which is fine for everyone.

12
OBSERVING THE SKY
Sky conditions
Sky conditions are usually defined by two atmospheric characteristics, seeing, or the steadiness of the air,
and transparency, light scattering due to the amount of water vapour and particulate material in the air.
When you observe the Moon and the planets, and they appear as though water is running over them, you
probably have bad "seeing" because you are observing through turbulent air. In conditions of good "seeing",
the stars appear steady, without twinkling, when you look at them with unassisted eyes (without a telescope).
Ideal "transparency" is when the sky is inky black and the air is unpolluted.

Selecting an observing site

Travel to the best site that is reasonably accessible. It should be away from city lights, and upwind from any
source of air pollution. Always choose as high an elevation as possible; this will get you above some of the
lights and pollution and will ensure that you aren't in any ground fog. Sometimes low fog banks help to block
light pollution if you get above them. Try to have a dark, unobstructed view of the horizon, especially the
southern horizon if you are in the Northern Hemisphere and vice versa. However, remember that the darkest
sky is usually at the "Zenith", directly above your head. It is the shortest path through the atmosphere. Do
not try to observe any object when the light path passes near any protrusion on the ground. Even extremely
light winds can cause major air turbulence as they flow over the top of a building or wall. If you try to observe
on any structure, or even a sidewalk, movements you make may cause the telescope to vibrate. Pavement
and concrete can also radiate stored heat which will affect observing.

Observing through a window is not recommended because the window glass will distort images considerably.
And an open window can be even worse, because warmer indoor air will escape out the window, causing
turbulence which also affects images. Astronomy is an outdoor activity.

Choosing the best time to observe

The best conditions will have still air, and obviously, a clear view of the sky. It is not necessary that the sky
be cloud-free. Often broken cloud conditions provide excellent seeing. Do not view immediately after sunset.
After the sun goes down, the Earth is still cooling, causing air turbulence. As the night goes on, not only
will seeing improve, but air pollution and ground lights will often diminish. Some of the best observing time
is often in the early morning hours. Objects are best observed as they cross the meridian, which is an
imaginary line that runs through the Zenith, due North-South. This is the point at which objects reach their
highest points in the sky. Observing at this time reduces bad atmospheric effects. When observing near
the horizon, you look through lots of atmosphere, complete with turbulence, dust particles and increased
light pollution.

Cooling the telescope

Telescopes require at least 10 to 30 minutes to cool down to outside air temperature. However this may
take longer if there is a big diference between the temperature of the telescope and the outside air. This
minimizes heat wave distortion inside telescope tube (tube currents). Allow a longer cooling time for larger
optics. If you are using an equatorial mount, use this time for polar alignment.

Using your eyes

Do not expose your eye to anything except red light for 30 minutes prior to observing. This allows your pupils
to expand to their maximum diameter and biochemical light adaptation to occur. It is important to observe
with both eyes open. This avoids fatigue at the eyepiece , allows you to check against reference material,
and is a good habit to develop if you sketch at the eyepiece.. If you find this too distracting, cover the non-
used eye with your hand or an eyepatch. Use averted vision on faint objects: The center of your eye is the
least sensitive to low light levels. When viewing a faint object, don't look directly at it. Instead, look slightly
to the side, and the object will appear brighter.

13
PROPER CARE FOR YOUR TELESCOPE
Collimating a Newtonian
Fig.j
Collimation is the process of aligning the mirrors of your telescope so that
they work in concert with each other to deliver properly focused light to your
eyepiece. By observing out-of-focus star images, you can test whether your
telescope's optics are aligned. Place a star in the centre of the field of view
and move the focuser so that the image is slightly out of focus. If the seeing
conditions are good, you will see a central of light (the Airy disc) surrounded
by a number of diffraction rings. If the rings are symmetrical about the Airy Corretly aligned Needs collimation
disc, the telescope's optics are correctly collimated (Fig.j).

If you do not have a collimating tool, we suggest that you make a "collimating cap" out of a plastic 35mm film
canister (black with gray lid). Drill or punch a small pinhole in the exact center of the lid and cut off the bottom
of the canister. This device will keep your eye centered of the focuser tube. Insert the collimating cap into the
focuser in place of a regular eyepiece. Fig.k
Focuser
Collimation is a painless process and works like this:
Support for
Pull off the lens cap which covers the front of the telescope secondary mirror
and look down the optical tube. At the bottom you will see the
primary mirror held in place by three clips 120º apart, and at
the top the small oval secondary mirror held in a support and
tilted 45º toward the focuser outside the tube wall (Fig.k). Primary mirror Secondary mirror

The secondary mirror is aligned by adjusting the central bolt Fig.l

behind it, (which moves the mirror up and down the tube), and Primary mirror
the three smaller screws surrounding the bolt, (which adjust
the angle of the mirror). The primary mirror is adjusted by the
three adjusting screws at the back of your scope. The three
locking screws beside them serve to hold the mirror in place Mirror cell
after collimation. (Fig.l)

Aligning the Secondary Mirror Locking screw Adjusting screw

Point the telescope at a lit wall and insert the collimating cap into the focuser in place of a regular eyepiece.
Look into the focuser through your collimating cap. You may have to twist the focus knob a few turns until the
reflected image of the focuser is out of your view. Note: keep your eye against the back of the focus tube if
collimating without a collimating cap. Ignore the reflected image of the collimating cap or your eye for now,
instead look for the three clips holding the primary mirror in place. If you can't see them (Fig.m), it means that
you will have to adjust the three bolts on the top of the secondary mirror holder, with possibly an Allen wrench
or Phillip's screwdriver. You will have to alternately or loosen one and then compensate for the slack by tightening
the other two. Stop when you see all three mirror clips (Fig.n). Make sure that all three small alignment screws
are tightened to secure the secondary mirror in place.

Primary mirror clip Primary mirror clip

Primary mirror clip

Ignore the reflected

image for now
Primary mirror clip
Fig.m Fig.n

14
Aligning the Primary Mirror

Find the three locking screws at the back of your telescope and loosen them by a few turns.

Adjusting screw Locking screw Locking screw Adjusting screw

If you see 3 large nuts protruding If you see 6 Phillip's-head screws

from the back of your telescope but 3 protruding from the back of
and 3 small Phillip's-head screws your telescope, the 3 protruding
besides them, the Phillip's-head screws are locking screws and the
screws are the locking screws and ones next to them are adjusting
the large nuts are the adjusting screws. screws.

hex bolt (Locking screw) Adjusting screw

If you see 3 hex bolts and 3 Phillip's

head screws, the hex bolts are the
locking screws and the Phillip's-head
screws are the adjusting screws. You
will need an Allen wrench to adjust
the locking screws.
Fig.o

Now run your hand around the front of your telescope keeping
your eye to the focuser, you will see the reflected image of Secondary
your hand. The idea here being to see which way the primary mirror
mirror is defected, you do this by stopping at the point where
the reflected image of the secondary mirror is closest to the
primary mirrors' edge (Fig.o).

When you get to that point, stop and keep your hand there
while looking at the back end of your telescope, is there a
adjusting screw there? If there is you will want to loosen it
Primary mirror stop and keep your
(turn the screw to the left) to bring the mirror away from that
hand here
point. If there isn't a adjusting screw there, then go across
to the other side and tighten the adjusting screw on the other
side. This will gradually bring the mirror into line until it looks
like Fig.p. (It helps to have a friend to help for primary mirror Fig.p
collimation. Have your partner adjust the adjusting screws
according to your directions while you look in the focuser.)

After dark go out and point your telescope at

Polaris, the North Star. With an eyepiece in the
focuser, take the image out of focus. You will see
the same image only now, it will be illuminated
by starlight. If necessary, repeat the collimating
process only keep the star centered while
teaking the mirror.
Both mirrors aligned Both mirrors aligned with
with collimating cap in eye looking in focuser

Cleaning your telescope

Replace the dust cap over end of telescope whenever not in use. This prevents dust from settling on
mirror or lens surface. Do not clean mirror or lens unless you are familiar with optical surfaces. Clean
finderscope and eyepieces with special lens paper only. Eyepieces should be handled with care, avoid
touching optical surfaces.

15
SUGGESTED READING
Amateur Astronomy
Beginner's Guide to Amateur Astronomy: Astrophotography for the Amateur: by Michael
An Owner's Manual for the Night Sky by David J. Covington (Cambridge University Press, Cambridge,
Eicher and, Michael Emmerich (Kalmbach Publishing UK, 2nd edition,1999).
Co., Books Division, Waukesha, WI, 1993).
Splendors of the Universe: A Practical Guide to
NightWatch: A Practical Guide to Viewing the Photographing the Night Sky by Terence Dickinson
Universe by Terence Dickinson, (Firefly Books, and Jack Newton (Firefly Books, Willowdale, ON,
Willowdale, ON, Canada, 3rd edition, 1999). Canada, 1997)
Star Ware: The Amateur Astronomer's Ultimate Wide-Field Astrophotography by Robert Reeves
Guide to Choosing, Buying, and Using Telescopes (Willmann-Bell, Inc., Richmond, VA, 2000).
and Accessories by Philip S. Harrington (John Wiley
& Sons, New York, 1998 ).
The Backyard Astronomer's Guide by Terence
Observational References
Dickinson and Alan Dyer (Firefly Books Ltd., A Field Guide to the Stars and Planets by Jay M.
Willowdale, ON, Canada, revised edition, 1994). Pasachoff, (Houghton Mifflin Company, 1999).
The Beginner's Observing Guide: An Introduction Atlas of the Moon by Antonín Rükl (Kalmbach
to the Night Sky for the Novice Stargazer by Leo Publishing Co., Books Division, Waukesha, WI, 1993).
Enright, (The Royal Astronomical Society of Canada,
Toronto, ON, Canada, 1999). Burnham's Celestial Handbook: An Observer's
Guide to the Universe Beyond the Solar System
The Deep Sky: An Introduction by Philip S. by Robert Burnham (Dover Publications, New York;
Harrington (Sky Publishing Corporation, Cambridge, 3- volume set, 1978).
MA, Sky & Telescope Observer's Guides Series, ed. Leif
J. Robinson, 1997). Observer's Handbook by The Royal Astronomical
Society of Canada, (University of Toronto Press,
The Universe from Your Backyard: A Guide to Toronto, ON, Canada, published annually).
Deep Sky Objects by David J. Eicher (Kalmbach
Publishing Co., Books Division, Waukesha, WI, 1988). Sky Atlas 2000.0 by Wil Tirion and Roger W. Sinnott
(Sky Publishing Corp., Cambridge, MA, 2nd edition,
Turn Left at Orion: A Hundred Night Sky 1998)
Objects to See in a Small Telescope--and how
to Find Them by Guy J. Consolmagno and Dan M.
Davis, (Cambridge University Press, New York, 3rd Magazines
edition, 2000)
Astronomy Magazine (Kalmbach Publishing Co.,
Waukesha, WI)
Astrophotography Sky & Telescope Magazine (Sky Publishing Corp.,
A Manual Of Advanced Celestial Photography by Cambridge, MA)
Brad D. Wallis and Robert W. Provin (Cambridge SkyNews Magazine: The Canadian Magazine
University Press; New York; 1984) of Astronomy & Stargazing (SkyNews Inc., Yarker,
Astrophotography An Introduction by H.J.P. Arnold ON, Canada)
(Sky Publishing Corp., Cambridge, MA,Sky & Telescope
Observer's Guides Series, ed. Leif J. Robinson, 1995).

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