Indexable Turning Tools
How to build your own
The building pics below show attaching 1/4" TCMT carbide inserts to 1/2 tools.
This method will work for a range of different sizes.
First the insert is laid out on the 1/2" square steel A protractor and a metal scribe to make marks.
I make most of my tool holders 4" long.
Be sure to position the insert as shown. You do not
want the tip to hang over the edge of the steel.
This supports the carbide cutting tip.
Using the Mini Mill I mill the recess for the insert. Milling completed
If you don't have a mill you could use a lathe with a
milling attachment.
Slightly file the top edge of the 1/2" steel as shown Using a metal scribe while pressing the insert firmly
against
to allow for the bevel of the insert. You don't have to the edge of my workbench I mark the center hole
location.
remove much metal and it does not have to match
the bevel exactly.
The blue represents the scribe mark. I use a center punch to mark the screw hole location.
If you look closely you will notice the punch mark is slightly toward the filed edge of the tool.
This ensures that the insert fits tight against the back filed edge of the tool holder.
I have already drilled a # 43 hole to allow for the 4-40 tap.
I next use a 17/64" and drill approx 1/16" deep. This prevents
any pulled threads from interfering with the insert.
Before tapping I also drill from the bottom of the tool holder I used 4-40 allenhead screws to attach the inserts
to
approx half way using the larger 7/64" drill bit. You do not the 1/2" tools. I had to cut bevels on the screws as
want to cut threads the full thickness of the 1/2" tool. You shown below.
will never make it the full thickness with such a small tap.
Tap slow and use lots of oil. ( I broke my first tap )
Click here for a detailed picture
Using my 9 x 20 lathe I beveled the 4-40 allenhead screws.
Go slow and easy.
4-40 Allen head screw before and after bevel is cut Attach the insert and scribe the sides of the insert.
Shows where metal will need to be removed. Using a 1/4" inserts on a 1/2" tool I also scribed a
line to remove metal from the right side of the tool
Using an end mill I removed metal to the scribe mark
Using a fine grit grinding wheel remove excess metal. Keep the tool quenched regularly and you will be able to see
the scribe mark.
Grinding the edges is complete I also milled an angle on the bottom side of the tool
Be careful not to remove too much material from the tip. You want the carbide cutting tip to supported
Completed tool !!
Mig Welder Cart
Lincoln Pro-Mig 175
The cable reel works great and gives me 20' of cable to work with!!
I used #6 welding cable from a local welding supply store.
The reel is electrically insulated from the rest of the cart.
I started out with two 6" od circles for the reel. After cutting with a torch
I used my metal lathe and turned them to 5 3/4" od.
Also used a piece of 2" od pipe for the center of the reel.
Before welding the reel together I drilled and tapped a hole for the handle.
I also drilled and tapped a hole for the welding cable to attach.
The handle is a piece of brass turned on my lathe.
It is attached to the reel with a 1/4" hex head bolt.
The handle is drilled and recessed for the 1/4" attaching bolt.
I bolted the reel together with a 3/8 long bolt and then welded
the sides to the center 2" pipe.
Finished welding.
The brace that supports the reel is made from 2" angle iron.
The shaft that the reel spins on is a 3/8" bolt.
The 3/8" shaft is welded to the angle iron on the right side only.
The end of the 3/8" shaft is drilled and tapped to a 1/4" x 20.
A 1/4" bolt hold the reel onto the shaft.
The reel is electrically insulated from the cart.
I used a thick piece of rubber (old mudflap)
and a series of rubber washers and plastic
tubing to do this.
I used a small spring and a washer on the 3/8" shaft.
This keeps constant pressure / contact on the reel.
Also adds a little drag to the reel.
The #6 welding cable is attached to the reel with a 1/4" bolt.
Bottom view of reel attached to the cart.
Note: the reel is insulated from the cart.
The bracket is also drilled and tapped for the
ground cable from the welder on the left side.
Just about finished
I made up a new short ground cable that goes from the welder to the reel.
I purchased four #6 welding cable lugs and made new connectors for
all the cable ends.
Mig Welder Cart
Lincoln Pro-Mig 175
The frame is built from 2" square tubing. It measures 27" long x 12" wide.
I used my metal cutting bandsaw and cut the tubing at 45 degree angles.
The rear wheels are 6" lawnmower wheels. The front casters wheels measure 2 1/4"
Used the Pro Mig 175 and welded up the frame.
I drilled and taped the frame for the front casters to bolt to (three 1/4" x 20 bolts)
The 1/2" axle is welded to the frame. The two small pieces
welded on the center brace are to hold a shelf from the top.
I used a piece of cardboard as a template and then cut a piece of plywood
to act as a shelf. I then placed a piece of rubber on top of this (shown below)
The rubber mat / plywood just sits in place and can be
lifted out for cleaning.
The bottom part of the frame is 2" square tubing. The uprights are 1 1/2" square 22"
long.
The top of the uprights is cut at a 15 degree angle. The top plate that the welder sits
on is made from 3/16" thick plate. The top plate measures 19 1/2" long x 10" wide.
I added a 1" square brace to help support the top plate.
The handle on the front is a round piece of steel with a
bicycle grip added.
