There are thin pizzas and thick pizzas, but this sheet-pan pizza — with its shatteringly flaky, pastry-like crust — is in a category all its own. The distinct layers are made by incorporating grated frozen butter into the dough as it’s rolled out, folded up, and rolled again to create sheets of butter that puff up as the butter steams. This is the same sort of "lamination" used to make croissants, but in a streamlined, less exacting form. You’ll need to stick around the kitchen to tend to...